Wednesday, May 28, 2008

where has the time gone?

I am at a loss of words to begin to tell you what has been going on since the last post. Time in Mexico is lost track of much to easily. It wasn't until yesterday afternoon when I found out that June is a couple days away. The last 2 weeks have been emotional to say the least. Onshore winds big swell, offshore winds no swell, offshore winds swell and grey skys, blue skys onshore winds and no power. The internet has been off again, on again. The power has been just as touchy too. Good food (tempeh burgers/tacos al pastor/ttlayudas) bad food (nachos that had me locked in the room for hours). Movie marathons. I have gone so far to make it a point to listen to every song on my Ipod. Crews have come and gone and come back again. Today had the signs of a classic puerto morning. Crisp offshores, Sunny cloudless sky's and of course the ringer, 2 foot swell. The south pacific is active and now we play the waiting game. If it sounds like I'm complaining, I'm not. There's not too much for me to complain about. Our neighbors got a new ping pong table, some friends came into town I haven't seen in a long time. The redcrate happy hour has been going off every night, Coco introduced us to Habanero salsa which is amazing, my pool skills are better than ever, I learned how to play backgammon, seen more movies than I saw all last year put together, and it's only wednesday! So here's a few pics from the last week or so that are more detailed than my writings...

Thursday, May 15, 2008

Digital Dunfee

So I have realized that this blog is becoming more of a daily journal of my trip to Mexico. If you like it, cool. If not, stop reading. It gives me something to do when the wind is onshore.hahaha. After too many conversations about how easy it is to swim with fins and get stuck inside with the camera rather than dipping them with a big surfboard we came to a stand. This happened this morning and yesterday when the waves were small and it was time to test each others theory. I grabbed Derek's 6'8 and paddled out for a few while he stepped into my fins and fired away. He did a pretty good job I must say. He stayed in the zone, tried doing some passbys, and get the horizon straight (most the time). Here's one that he snapped of me from the morning. Monster came into town yesterday afternoon with a quiver of some sweet new sticks and is frothing to get some barrels. Hopefully the waves pick up and the wind stays nice...Time will tell. Ok, now it is time for me to go, we just got back from the Super Che market and I have a warm chocolate toasty croissant that came straight from the oven to my bag to be bought for a whopping 30 cents...Until next time hombres
Oh yeah, Tonight is Poker night so there should be some stories for tomorrow!

Tuesday, May 13, 2008


We have hit the jackpot! Mexican food is one of my favorite kinds of food and we have been eating at the best Mexican food place in town. I don't know the name, nor do I know how to get back there, but the food is that good I will find a way. I knew we had struck gold when I looked in to see a team of senoritas working away all in the name of food. This isn't no golf team either where theres a caddy and hitter, this is the realm deal. I'm talking a kitchen that could fit a whole football team inside doing nothing but boiling beans, cutting meat, making tortillas, cutting nopales (cactus) and making the freshest juice around. It is too good not to boast about. We went there this morning after our surf. The waves were nearly 1/2 the size of yesterday, so I took out Derek's board for a few. For being small, the waves still packed a punch and sent me swimming in for the board more than I would like to admit. The Hotel is beginning to fill up with people from Australia, Israel, Norway, and a few other countries. The pool is the place to be midday, and the pooltable determines whose Ipod gets played on the surround sound. My Bronze is coming in nice and the beard isn't far behind. It's been almost 10 days without taking a proper shower and I wouldn't doubt if my fellow neighbors started to say something. Who cares? I surf all morning, cruise poolside all day, than surf at night...WHo needs shampoo anyways? sorry mom...hahaha. Alright well its back to, shit I have nothing else to do, oh well. This blog has become more of a stream of consciousness with no editing, is that a bad thing? No, I dont think so...Peace out

Monday, May 12, 2008

the last few days

Day 4
The inconsistencies of my wireless internet and irregular wind patterns has drawn me to a new way to entertain myself during the midday heat and onshore winds. Is it a bad thing? Honestly, NO. The last two days the winds have been howling onshore just in time for the first solid south of the trip to come into town. Funny how that works sometimes. We are still on the early morning wake up schedule and I still set my housing up in the dark in hopes of looking off my third floor balcony and seeing lines of groomed perfection. Instead my eyes have been staring at nothing but onshore, mixed up, rip current infested junk. So rather than going back to bed, we have started training harder in anticipation of the day when it does get good. A morning stretch, run, and bodysurf has become the norm. Today the waves while we were bodysurfing solid stormy waves tested our lags after running in the soft sand. I got a couple really fun waves bodysurfing and one big airdrop to closeout thing that put me in the zone for roughly 5 waves straight on the head. I came up laughing! After the morning excersise it was on to Cafecito for a 2 hour breakfest of fresh fruit and French Toast. With the winds not being the best and not much else to do, we do what we can to make the time go by. Games of pool for beers, underwater laps in the pool and talks of eating tacos have become our daily ritual. Tomorrow is a new day, hopes are high, and if the waves aren’t good, there is always the run and bodysurf to keep my spirits high for the following day.

Day 8
Its 6:30 in the morning, the wind has been howling onshore for the last 3 days. I’m starting to lose it. Another good swell ruined by onshore winds. This will be the last time I come to Puerto in May. This isn’t the way I had envisioned this trip going. Rather than the usual morning offshores and afternoon glass-offs, we have been plagued. Not only is the swell smaller than yesterday, there isn’t much on the horizon either. So here I am at 6:30 in the morning trying to figure out what to do for the rest of the day. The wireless internet isn’t working, I have seen all my movies too many times to count, my book is almost done and I’m supposed to be here another 3 weeks..yeah right, we’ll see if that happens.

Day 8 part II
8:45am…Derek, Isaac, Chris, and myself decided we had to do something to kill some time so we decided to run to the point and back. 30 minutes later we were back where we started and feeling good. It was a great way to start the morning and keep motivated to be in shape for when the waves do decide to get good. We walked to Cafecito to get some breakfest afterwards and ran into Ruben having coffee. I asked him how much longer he thinks the wind will stay like this. He said last May Aichner waited 25 days. That is a long time to be down here without getting any good days. Lets hope that is not the case this year. Apparently the onshores are a result of the burning of the bushes further inland. We are waiting on the first rain now…

Wednesday, May 7, 2008

Captains log day 2

Today was another day in paradise that started a little slower than expected. We got up extra early and jammed out to the lineup running down the beach as we saw perfect waves breaking, got in the water and didn't catch a wave for the first hour and a half. We tried to shoot with my flash rig, but by the time the sun was out, not one wave had come close to where we were. It was as if someone was doing everything they could to make sure we didn't get a shot. We went in with out confidence bruised and questioning whether or not to shoot without a flash. Somehow Derek talked me in to going back out and sure enough, within 10 minuetes we had 3 solid waves packed and were loving life. Our session was going sweet until his board snapped on a smaller one, and sure enough the wind switched right after. No worries though, he recruited back to his room and I did my daily afternoon siesta which I woke up for just in time to watch the sunset, swim some laps in the pool and eat some food. It's 10pm, I couldn't go to sleep if I wanted to as a result of my siesta that went way too long. It's hotter than hell right now and the ice-cream I just ate was clinging on to the cone before melting away in mere seconds of being pulled from the safety of the freezer. Another good day, some sick shots, and tomorrow should be on all over again! Signing out for the night and its time to pop in Superbad. Oh yeah, Just when I thought Ichat wasn't enough to communicate with my friends over the internet, Skype was introduced. Its as if you never need to talk to anyone ever anymore, typing is the new talking.

Monday, May 5, 2008

day 1

Dear Diary, hahaha just kidding. So I was going to write this on a crumbled up piece of paper in a rundown, shitty hotel in a small fishing village in mexico until I told myself that would be a lie. I am living the life right now. I'm staying in a newly built hotel thats 3 times the size of my room back home. Fresh tile on the floor, ocean view, refrigerator, stove, microwave, and a shower with cold and HOT water. I feel weird complaining except for the shitty plumbing (literally) that just gave out. Oh well, things could be much worse. Dunfee and I flew in last night on a flight that was too easy, fell asleep on the ground in LA and woke up 15 minutes before we landed. That nap helped in avoiding the airplane food, those weird conversations with people that never stop talking on the plane and any other annoyances that can happen on a long flight (kids screaming, constant tapping, and people who listen to there ipod so loud you can hear it from 3 rows away. The second flight went smooth as silk except for one unfornate soul who ate the breakfest on the first flight and spent the final flight on all fours throwing it up. After a quick check in, I went for a surf in the water that must have been close to 90 to get the old legs working after so much sitting. An afternoon of waves followed by my favorite fajitas made for an early night. This morning had a few gems in the mix. The crowd was thick, but the boys all got a few. It felt great to get sucked over the falls on a few and pushed around by the ocean. Sometimes I forget if the ocean in Southern California knows how to do that (it is spring time). So here I am sitting my plush room, ipod bumping tunes, the wireless internet has been getting put to full use and below is an empty that snuck through the pack this morning. All in less than 24 hours...I love this place!